Patchouly(1928)

A patchouli soliflore from Jacques Guerlain, opening on bergamot before the patchouli heart, closing on patchouli, musk, and woods, an unusually direct, single-material focus on a note more typically used as a supporting base ingredient. Patchouli's earthy, dark, slightly camphoraceous scent had strong associations with Middle Eastern and South Asian textiles in this period, imported patchouli-scented shawls and fabrics having introduced the material to European noses well before it became a standard perfumery ingredient. Building an entire composition around it as a dedicated soliflore represents a relatively bold, unconventional choice compared to Guerlain's more typical florals and orientals.