Cabochard Parfum(1959)

Created by Bernard Chant for Gres, Cabochard opens on bergamot and aldehydes, moves through a heart of jasmine, rose, iris, and narcissus, and closes on oakmoss, leather, patchouli, and amber. Its name, meaning Stubborn or Headstrong, signals the fragrance's assertive, confident character, built on a dense leather-oakmoss-patchouli chypre base that made it one of the more challenging, sophisticated women's fragrances of the late 1950s. Chant, who would later create Aramis for Estee Lauder, brought a similarly dry, leathery sensibility to this earlier work for Gres. Cabochard remains one of the house's most historically significant creations and a frequently cited example of the leather-chypre genre's mature late-1950s expression.