Vent Vert(1947)
Created by Germaine Cellier for Balmain, Vent Vert, Green Wind, opens on an extreme overdose of galbanum and bergamot, moves through a heart of green notes, iris, and jasmine, and closes on vetiver, oakmoss, and musk.
Created by Germaine Cellier for Balmain, Vent Vert, Green Wind, opens on an extreme overdose of galbanum and bergamot, moves through a heart of green notes, iris, and jasmine, and closes on vetiver, oakmoss, and musk. Cellier's decision to push galbanum, a naturally sharp, bitter, sap-like green material, to an unprecedented concentration made Vent Vert the founding reference for the entire green fragrance genre, a structural innovation as significant to green perfumery as Chanel No. 5's aldehyde overdose had been to the aldehydic genre a quarter-century earlier. Its uncompromising, almost aggressive freshness broke sharply from the sweeter, rounder florals that had dominated women's perfumery, continuing the bold, non-conventional style Cellier had already established with Bandit three years earlier. Vent Vert remains a frequently cited landmark in perfume history, still referenced by contemporary perfumers whenever discussing the technical possibilities of building a fragrance around a single, deliberately overdosed material.
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