OLFACTIONARY, HISTORIC TEXTS BIBLIOGRAPHY Generated from https://olfactionary.com/historic-texts.php, see that page for full context notes on each source. ============================================================================== 1. HISTORY & CULTURE -------------------- Tapputi-Belet-ekallim; tablet transliterated by Erich Ebeling (1919), analyzed by Escobar (2023). The Tapputi-Belet-ekallim Tablet (KAR 220) (1239 BCE). https://cris.unibo.it/retrieve/bf9d7b14-14e3-41c1-a4fb-891bf2e961b2/Escobar%202023%20Tapputi%20belat%20ekalle-A%20Cuneiform%20Tablet%20on%20Middle%20Assyrian%20perfumery%20in%20UCL%20Women-in-the-History-of-Science.pdf Theophrastus (trans. Sir Arthur Hort). Concerning Odours (De Odoribus) (c. 300 BCE). https://archive.org/details/enquiryintoplant01theouoft Athenaeus of Naucratis (trans. C. D. Yonge, 1854). The Deipnosophists, Book XV (On Perfumes) (200). https://www.attalus.org/old/athenaeus15.html Pliny the Elder (trans. Bostock & Riley). Naturalis Historia, Book XIII (Unguents and Perfumes) (77). https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/59131 Dioscorides (trans. John Goodyer, 1655; ed. Robert T. Gunther, 1934). The Greek Herbal of Dioscorides (De Materia Medica) (70). https://archive.org/details/greekherbalofdio0000dios Plutarch (trans. Frank Cole Babbitt, Loeb Classical Library). De Iside et Osiride, §80 (the Kyphi recipe) (100). https://www.perseus.tufts.edu/hopper/text?doc=Perseus%3Atext%3A2008.01.0239%3Asection%3D80 trans. Cyril P. Bryan (from the German edition). The Papyrus Ebers (1930). https://archive.org/details/papyrusebers0000cyri Lise Manniche. Sacred Luxuries: Fragrance, Aromatherapy, and Cosmetics in Ancient Egypt (1999). https://archive.org/details/sacredluxuriesfr0000mann Hélène Chouliara-Raïos. Le kyphi dans les papyrus grecs (2018). https://journals.openedition.org/pallas/10389 Varāhamihira (trans. V. Subrahmanya Sastri & M. Ramakrishna Bhat). Bṛhat Saṃhitā, Chapter 77 (Gandhayukti) (550). https://archive.org/details/VarahamihirasBrihatSamhitaByVSubrahmanyaSastri ed. M. Padmanabha Marathe Kaeel; Kavikulguru Kalidas Sanskrit University, Ramtek. Gandhaśāstram: A Panoramic View on Cosmetics and Perfumes in Sanskrit Literature (2021). https://archive.org/details/oicK_aioc-series-no.-98-gandh-shastram-kavikulguru-kalidas-sanskrit-university-ramtek-collection Abu'l-Fazl ibn Mubarak (trans. H. Blochmann). Āʾīn-i Akbarī, Volume I (the imperial perfume department) (1590). https://archive.org/details/in.ernet.dli.2015.32526 United Provinces of Agra and Oudh government. District Gazetteer of Farrukhabad (the Kannauj scent industry) (1911). https://archive.org/details/dli.ministry.07925 Hong Chu (洪芻). 香譜 (Xiang Pu / "The Incense Manual") (1115). https://ctext.org/wiki.pl?if=en&res=227843 Ōeda Ryūhō (大枝流芳). 香道滝之糸 (Kōdō Taki no Ito) (1733). https://archive.wul.waseda.ac.jp/kosho/wo09/wo09_04315/ Zhou Jiazhou (周嘉胄). 香乘 (Xiang Cheng / "The Records of Incense") (1643). https://ctext.org/wiki.pl?if=en&res=3936441 Giovanventura Rosetti. Notandissimi Secreti de l'Arte Profumatoria (1555). https://search.worldcat.org/title/notandissimi-secreti-de-larte-profumatoria-per-far-ogli-acque-paste-balle-moscardini-vccelletti-paternostri-e-tutta-larte-intiera/oclc/877825572 Alessio Piemontese (trans. William Warde). The Secrets of Alexis of Piedmont (1558). https://archive.org/details/McGillLibrary-108707-75 Isabella Cortese. I Secreti de la Signora Isabella Cortese (1561). https://archive.org/details/isecretidelasign00cort André Le Fournier. La Décoration d'Humaine Nature et Ornement des Dames (1530). https://catalogue.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/cb30774539d Michel de Nostredame (Nostradamus). Excellent & Moult Utile Opuscule (Traité des Fardemens et Confitures) (1555). https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k15202241/ Sir Hugh Platt. Delightes for Ladies (1602). https://archive.org/details/bim_early-english-books-1475-1640_delightes-for-ladies-_platt-sir-hugh_1632 Simon Barbe. Le Parfumeur François (1693). https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k5812605z Pierre-Joseph Buc'hoz. The Toilet of Flora (1772). https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/44276 Rebecca J. Mendoza. Ritual Relationships with Copal Incense (2023). https://dash.harvard.edu/bitstreams/b8cc251b-3d4e-4482-8d84-0175d54f2867/download Nicholas J. Sadgrove. Southern Africa as a 'Cradle of Incense' in Wider African Aromatherapy (2020). https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2468227620302404 Eugène Rimmel. The Book of Perfumes (1865). https://archive.org/details/bookofperfumes00rimm C. J. S. Thompson. The Mystery and Lure of Perfume (1927). https://archive.org/details/b29931423 2. RAW MATERIALS & EXTRACTION ----------------------------- Yuḥannā ibn Māsawayh (Mesuë Senior). Jawāhir al-Ṭīb al-Mufrada ("Simple Aromatic Substances") (830). https://www.ozguryayinlari.com/site/catalog/download/142/749/1910 Abū Yūsuf Yaʻqūb ibn Isḥāq al-Kindī. Al-Kindi's Book of the Chemistry of Perfume and Distillations (850). https://www.jstage.jst.go.jp/article/orient/52/0/52_72/_pdf Abū al-Qāsim al-Zahrāwī (Albucasis). Kitāb al-Taṣrīf, Treatise XIX — On Perfumery, Cosmetics, and Aromatic Compounds (1000). http://www.muslimheritage.com/article/muslim-contribution-cosmetics Ibn Sīnā (Avicenna). The Canon of Medicine (Al-Qānūn fī al-Ṭibb) (1025). https://archive.org/details/CanonOfMedicine Ibn al-Bayṭār (trans. Lucien Leclerc). Kitāb al-Jāmiʿ li-Mufradāt al-Adwiya wa-al-Aghdhiya (Traité des Simples) (1877). https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bd6t5754324v Giambattista della Porta. Natural Magick (Magia Naturalis), Book X: Of Distillation (1658). https://archive.org/details/naturalmagick00port Hieronymus Brunschwig (trans. Laurence Andrew). The Vertuose Boke of Distyllacyon (1527). https://archive.org/details/mobot31753000816063 Nicolas Lémery. Traité Universel des Drogues Simples (1698). https://archive.org/details/traituniversel00lm G. W. Septimus Piesse. The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants (1855). https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/16378 G. W. Septimus Piesse (rev. Charles H. Piesse). Piesse's Art of Perfumery (5th Edition) (1891). https://archive.org/details/b28050009 George William Askinson. Perfumes and Their Preparation (1892). https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/55735 John Charles Sawer. Odorographia, Vol. I (1892). https://archive.org/details/odorographianatu01sawe_0 John Charles Sawer. Odorographia, Vol. II (1894). https://archive.org/details/odorographianatu02sawe William A. Poucher. Perfumes, Cosmetics and Soaps (Vol. 1: The Raw Materials of Perfumery) (1923). https://archive.org/details/perfumescosmetic0001pouc William A. Poucher. Perfumes, Cosmetics and Soaps (Vol. 2: Practical Perfumery, With Especial Reference to Synthetics) (1926). https://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=mdp.39015065202965 R. S. Cristiani. Perfumery and Kindred Arts (1877). https://archive.org/details/perfumerykindred00crisrich Schimmel & Co. (Miltitz, near Leipzig). Semi-Annual Report of Schimmel & Co. (1909). https://archive.org/details/semiannualreport1909schi Schimmel & Co. (Miltitz, near Leipzig). Semi-Annual Report of Schimmel & Co. (1904) (1904). https://archive.org/details/semiannualreport1904schi Schimmel & Co. (Miltitz, near Leipzig). Semi-Annual Report of Schimmel & Co. (1906) (1906). https://archive.org/details/semiannualreport1906schi Schimmel & Co. (Miltitz, near Leipzig). Semi-Annual Report of Schimmel & Co. (1910–1911) (1910). https://archive.org/details/semiannualrep19101911schi Schimmel & Co. (Miltitz, near Leipzig). Semi-Annual Report of Schimmel & Co. (1913) (1913). https://archive.org/details/semiannualreport1913schi Schimmel & Co. (Miltitz, near Leipzig). Semi-Annual Report of Schimmel & Co. (1917) (1917). https://archive.org/details/semiannualreport1917schi Schimmel & Co. (Miltitz, near Leipzig). Semi-Annual Report of Schimmel & Co. (1918–1920) (1918). https://archive.org/details/semiannualrep19181920schi Schimmel & Co. (Miltitz, near Leipzig). Annual Report of Schimmel & Co. (1921–1922) (1921). https://archive.org/details/annualreporto19211922schi Roure-Bertrand Fils (Grasse). Bulletin Scientifique et Industriel de la Maison Roure-Bertrand Fils (1900). https://catalog.hathitrust.org/Record/102735253 Établissements Antoine Chiris (Grasse). Les Parfums de France (as Revue des Marques, Parfums de France) (1924). https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/cb343784258/date Y. R. Naves & G. Mazuyer (trans. Edward Sagarin). Natural Perfume Materials: A Study of Concretes, Resinoids, Floral Oils and Pomades (1947). https://archive.org/details/naturalperfumema00nave Ernest Guenther. The Essential Oils, Vol. I (1948). https://archive.org/details/TheEssentialOilsVol1HisErnestGuenther 3. FORMULATION & COMPOSITION ---------------------------- Antoine Hornot (writing as "M. Déjean"). Traité des Odeurs (1764). https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k1051280k Charles Lillie. The British Perfumer (1822). https://archive.org/details/b22026290 Madame Celnart (Élisabeth-Félicie Bayle-Mouillard). Nouveau Manuel Complet du Parfumeur (1834). https://books.google.com/books?id=81JHAAAAYAAJ Elisabeth Celnart (trans. Campbell Morfit). Perfumery, Its Manufacture and Use (1853). https://archive.org/details/perfumeryitsman00morfgoog Arnold J. Cooley. The Toilet and Cosmetic Arts in Ancient and Modern Times (1866). https://archive.org/details/b24863725 Hippolyte Dussauce. A Practical Guide for the Perfumer (1868). https://archive.org/details/apracticalguide00lunegoog John H. Snively. A Treatise on the Manufacture of Perfumes and Kindred Toilet Articles (1877). https://catalog.hathitrust.org/Record/100158772 Dr. Carl Deite. A Practical Treatise on the Manufacture of Perfumery (1892). https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/50139 René-Maurice Gattefossé (ed.). La Parfumerie Moderne, Vol. 15 (1922) (1922). https://archive.org/details/BIUSante_pharma_p15270x1922x15 Jean Carles. A Method of Creation in Perfumery (1961). https://archive.org/details/a-method-of-creation-and-perfumery-by-jean-carles-dec.-1961 Edmond Roudnitska. Le Parfum (1980). https://openlibrary.org/works/OL6259485W F. V. Wells & Marcel Billot. Perfumery Technology: Art, Science, Industry (1975). https://wellcomecollection.org/works/j3kpmffj 4. CHEMISTRY OF AROMA MATERIALS ------------------------------- Ernest J. Parry. The Chemistry of Essential Oils and Artificial Perfumes (1899). https://archive.org/details/chemistryessent01parrgoog Ernest J. Parry. The Chemistry of Essential Oils and Artificial Perfumes, Vol. II (1921). https://archive.org/details/chemistryofessen0002parr Eugène Charabot & C.-L. Gatin. Le Parfum chez la Plante (1908). https://archive.org/details/leparfumchezlapl00char Otto Wallach. Terpene und Campher (1909). https://archive.org/details/terpeneundcamphe00wallrich Eduard Gildemeister & Friedrich Hoffmann. The Volatile Oils, Vol. 1 (1913). https://archive.org/details/volatileoils01gilduoft Eduard Gildemeister & Friedrich Hoffmann. Die Ätherischen Öle, Band 2 (The Volatile Oils, Vol. 2) (1913). https://archive.org/details/DieAetherischenOeleBand21913-TheVolatileOils Eduard Gildemeister & Friedrich Hoffmann (ed.). The Volatile Oils, Vol. 3 (1922). https://archive.org/details/in.ernet.dli.2015.42679 Paul Jeancard. Les Parfums: Chimie et Industrie (1927). https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k1179012b Steffen Arctander. Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin (1960). https://archive.org/details/isbn_9781978241329 Steffen Arctander. Perfume and Flavor Chemicals (Aroma Chemicals) (1969). https://openlibrary.org/books/OL5216938M/Perfume_and_flavor_chemicals Malcolm Dyson. The Scientific Basis of Odour (1938). https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1002/jctb.5000572802 Wilhelm Haarmann & Ferdinand Tiemann. The synthesis of vanillin (1874). https://www.symrise.com/our-stories/150-shades-of-innovation/vanilla/the-big-bang/ Roman Kaiser (Givaudan) and Braja Mookherjee (IFF). Headspace Analysis and the "Living Flower" (1990). https://patents.google.com/patent/US5367899 Ferdinand Tiemann & Paul Krüger. The synthesis of ionone (1893). https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC7764282/ Albert Baur. The discovery of synthetic musk (1888). https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synthetic_musk 5. MODERN REFERENCE & REGULATION -------------------------------- International Fragrance Association. IFRA Standards Library. https://ifrafragrance.org/standards-library The Good Scents Company. The Good Scents Company Database. https://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/ Linda B. Buck & Richard Axel. A Novel Multigene Family May Encode Odorant Receptors: A Molecular Basis for Odor Recognition (1991). https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/1840504/ J. Stephan Jellinek & Robert R. Calkin. Perfumery: Practice and Principles (1994). https://openlibrary.org/works/OL3953403W/Perfumery Paul Jellinek. The Practice of Modern Perfumery (1954). https://archive.org/details/practiceofmodern0000paul 6. DOCUMENTED REFORMULATION CASE STUDIES ---------------------------------------- IFRA Standard on Oakmoss Extracts (Amendment 49, 2020). The Oakmoss Restriction and the Chypre Reformulation Era (2020). https://ifrafragrance.org/standards/IFRA_STD_067.pdf